Kinlom Chomsaphan กินลมชมสะพาน

Kinlom Chomsaphan (also spelled Khin Lom Chom Saphan) sits at the end of Soi Samsen 3 on the Phra Nakhon bank of the Chao Phraya, and the name is the whole pitch: eat in the breeze and look at the bridge. The Rama VIII Bridge fills the view from the riverside terrace, and there is an air-conditioned room indoors for hot afternoons. Unusually for the old town, it has its own car park, and Wongnai lists 81 to 150 seats, so it copes with large family tables.

The menu is Thai seafood plus a few crowd-pleasers. Prices logged by Wongnai members: tom yum goong 260 baht, blue crab som tam 300, seafood hor mok steamed in a young coconut 290, crab roe chilli dip 200, shrimp cakes 190, miang with small shrimp 140, krathong thong cups 130 and a German pork knuckle at 440. Grab's list of riverside restaurants singles out yum sam saep, a spicy salad of prawn, squid and oyster. Wongnai's price band for a meal here is 501 to 1,000 baht a head.

The ratings split: Google gives 4.6 from more than 8,600 reviews, Wongnai 3.5 from about 300, where the complaints are about value and dishes selling out. Google and Thailand Magazine list 11:00 to midnight daily; Wongnai says 23:00, so check before a late booking.