Tsuru Udon Thonglor ซูรุอุด้ง ทองหล่อ

Tsuru Udon's original shop sits upstairs from a car-care centre near Thonglor Soi 2, reached by a single flight of stairs and under five minutes from BTS Thong Lo. The udon is kneaded and cut fresh every day, which gives it the chew and heft that packet noodles never have, and the dashi is drawn from dried bonito and kombu. Cold udon starts with zaru at 210 baht, hot udon with kitsune at 240 baht. The two orders that dominate the room are kamatama niku, dry udon tossed with raw egg and sliced beef at 280 baht, and mentai cream, cod-roe cream udon scattered with tempura crumbs at 360 baht. For something less usual there is hiyashi ikura, cold udon with raw salmon and roe at 460 baht, and udon hotpots such as kimchi chige or toripaitan at 390 baht. Rice bowls and small plates like edamame at 90 baht round it out, and the kitchen makes its own egg pudding for dessert. Seating runs from ordinary tables to low Japanese tables, an outdoor bar and a VIP room; you order by scanning the QR code at the table. Budget 250 to 500 baht a head. Open daily 11am to 9pm.